Today I got for myself a small tin box from Extreme Adventure Sports. They are the India importers of various brands and products that I find very useful. I like the idea of their business. I got for myself an Icetoolz branded bicycle puncture repair kit (among other things). It cost me Rs 213 plus 30 per cent tax - so about Rs 275 I guess. I have one punctured tube at home and I found it difficult to get it fixed from ordinary tyre repair stores. Hence I bought this kit for myself. More out of anger at lack of availability for useful service than anything else. I may not require this very often. But I need my own stuff when I need it. Read about my trials and tribulations with trying to get a puncture repaired here in Calcutta. Click here
The kit comes in a smart and cute tin box. It has three tyre levers which can be clicked into one composite unit, a 10 ml tube of sealing cement, 18 patches of different sizes and a small thin tube which is technically known as valve hose. Our mechanics call them "valtube", a corruption of valve tube. There is also a small piece of sandpaper for filing up the punctured area. There are ten patches that require sealing glue.
And then there are eight patches like band aids, which are possibly glueless patches. I have to get a clarity on this as it is not explained in the kit. I have my Park Tool tyre levers but that will remain in my saddle bag for on road use. This tin is for home repair of punctured tubes. I don't know but if I ever go on multi-day trips I might carry this kit with me instead of carrying too many new spare tubes.
I have yet to use this. I intend to fix my own punctured tube tomorrow. Once I am done I shall report again.
This morning (Sunday 13th May, 2018) I fixed the puncture in my old tube. For the first time in life, of course. Very basic and easy to do. Obviously. Illiterates on the street also do it. But yes, they do it every day and several times a day. Will write down the steps.
The full kit |
1. Get all the damn things in place. The repair patch, cement/glue (mechanics call it rubber solution), sandpaper, marker, pump, the tube and a mug of water. The mug should have a wide mouth. Else get a tumbler.
2. Pump the tube up. If the hole is really small, like in my case, pump the tube really fat. Push the tube inside the water starting from the valve (keep the valve above water). Once you locate the hole (bubbles would come out) mark a circle around it. I used a green marker. Next time I will use a chalk. Our mechanics insert a match stick in the hole.
3. Deflate the tube. The circle drawn with the marker will shrink. Better to make a larger circle. Rub the sandpaper gently over the circle. If you are buying your own sandpaper go for the thinnest grade meant for cleaning steel. They come in a deep blue, almost black colour. Certainly not the yellow grade meant for wood.
4. Apply the cement over the filed area. Keep it thin. Let it dry on the tube for 3/4 minutes. Meanwhile get the patch ready. There are three layers. The top cellophane, the actual patch (black round thing inside an orange round circle) and an aluminium foil. Take off the aluminium foil making sure the cellophane does not come off.
5. Once the cement is dry apply the patch with the cellophane side up. Use something to smoothen out the patch so that no air is trapped inside. I used the head of the tyre levers. Now take off the cellophane.
6. Pump up again and test it. Mine was successful in the first go and here is the result of my first fix.
My first repaired tube |
Tuesday 15th May, 2018
The
previous fix that I did – the first one in my life – was a failure. After the
fix, I inflated the tube and tested it in watera. No bubbles. I left the tube
inflated overnight. After some time the tube seemed to have got thinner. By the
next day it was obvious that the patch had failed. I pumped it up and tested it
again. Indeed bubbles were coming out. Very slow. One bubble per second or
slower. But a failure nevertheless.
I
saw this new video from the Park Tool website. They had a few tips that I did
not know and did not follow. Tip number 1. Do not leave the tube inflated
outside the tyre. It weakens the bond. 2. Do not scratch off the cellophane
paper.
This
evening I decided to have another go and took off the old patch. I got some
lime from the pan shop infront of the office because the red marker that I had
was not leaving any mark whatsoever. Wet lime when it gets dry can be a good temporary marker on any black surface which I applied with a tooth pick. About half an inch away from the puncture on the four sides of the spot
Sanded
off the area. Applied glue and waited. Last time I had applied too much glue I suppose.
Next applied the patch. I chose a slightly rectangular one, which is a mistake
I made. This 23 tube is really thin. It was sticking out at the edges. The
bigger patches are meant for mountain bikes.
I
got a screwdriver to press the patch with (back of the handle, of course). The problem with the location of the
puncture is that it is just behind the valve. A tough paper for a new examinee. Perhaps the most difficult spot.
I cannot hold the tube flat on the ground or on some hard surface and press it
really hard, as it should be. I had to hold it in my left hand keeping the valve pointing down
between the fingers and press it.
I
took off the front wheel and did a real replacement. By the way, I used a real
stop clock and found I did the job of complete replacement in exactly 10 min 45
seconds. As I had said earlier, I will bring it down to 5/6 minutes. But I must
admit that I didn’t use the small hand pump. I used the floor standing one.
I
pumped the tube upto 100 psi and have kept the bike on the floor, resting
against the wall. Waiting for the result to come in. It should be obvious by
late night if not tomorrow. When the puncture first developed it used to go
flat overnight or over a few days. I have time till Sunday. If it goes flat
then I know it is a repeat failure. If it does not then I am fine with this
repaired tube for rides around the city. In any case I have the spare in the
saddle bag.
Wednesday 16th May, 2018
This morning the tyre looked tight enough to give me some confidence. Will check out how it holds out till the evening. I am in a slight dilemma as to what to do if the pressure holds. Do I keep this inside and let it be my principal tube or shall I replace it with the Maxxis?
6:45 PM Update
The pressure is holding strong till now. I guess this is a success. I will see till Friday and then take a call whether to go out with this on Saturday or change it back to the new Maxxis.
Friday 18th May, 2018
I checked the pressure this morning at around 9 am. It was 90. Two days ago I had pushed it from 90 to 100 psi. I guess it's a success. Some air loss in a high pressure tube is to be expected. If it goes flat in a couple of days then it is a matter of concern. Otherwise it's fine.
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